We live in strange times in India. The dichotomy inherent in us, thanks to preconceived notions of acceptable culture vis-à-vis the need to keep up with the rest of the world, has made us a rather confused lot. And this is best illustrated in a place like Benaras, which is both a city and a small town (in terms of attitude), a place of learning and intolerance, and a place that is ancient and modern.
Dying in Benares will absolve you of your sins, it is believed, and it is hardly surprising that the most prominent feature of the city is its waterfront, or the ghats. It is also....